The Northern Camino de Santiago

The Northern Way of St.James is a spectacular pilgrimage route in Spain. It goes past beautiful beaches, coastal towns, picturesque mountains, pasture fields, and lush forests. If you want to see both; the sea and the mountains – the Northern Way is a great route to walk. This Camino is also known as one of the toughest routes of the Camino de Santiago due to its mountainous terrain with frequent climbs and drops. If you want to escape the crowds and go more off the beaten track, it is a good alternative to the popular French Camino.

Stunning scenery on the Northern Camino de Santiago in Asturias

The Northern Way overview

• The Northern Camino is one of the pilgrimage routes of the Camino de Santiago.
• Total distance – 835 km/518 mi
• Starting point – Irún, a town in the Basque Country on the border with France.
• Finishing point – Santiago de Compostela.
• Accommodation – public & private albergues, hostels, and hotels.
• Average cost – 40 Euros per person per day.
• The route is marked with yellow arrows and shells.
• The Northern Way crosses four Spanish regions: the Basque Country, Cantabria, Asturias, and Galicia.

For a detailed day-by-day itinerary that includes walking stages, distances, places to stay, highlights, and challenges of the Camino check out our Camino del Norte walking stages post.

A recap of one day of a pilgrim on the Northern Camino

PDFs of the route

You can download our free PDF files with walking stages and places to stay on the Northern Way of St.James.

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What is the Northern Camino?

The Northern Camino or the Camino del Norte is a long-distance pilgrimage route across Northern Spain to the tomb of Apostle St.James in the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela. It’s one of the main Camino de Santiago routes.

If you have time I suggest spending a couple of days in Santiago de Compostela there are many great things to do.

Sunrise from the top of the hill on the first day of the Northern Camino on the way to San Sebastian

How long is the walk?

It takes between 30 and 35 days on average to complete the Northern Camino from Irun to Santiago de Compostela. The time depends on how far you walk every day and how many rest days (if any) you take.

How difficult is the route?

The Northern Camino is a challenging route. It’s considered one of the most difficult Camino de Santiago routes in Spain. First of all because of the long distance, over 800 km/497 mi. Second, the route has many ascents and descents and some long walking days. For inexperienced walkers, I would recommend training for the Camino de Santiago beforehand.

Where does the Northern Way start?

The Northern Camino starts in Irun, a small town in Northern Spain on the border with France. You can start walking from anywhere along the route depending on how far you want to walk and how much time you have.

The most popular starting points

Distances to Santiago de Compostela from different cities along the Northern Camino Comillas, a beautiful coastal town on the Northern Camino

How to get to the Camino?

The Camino starts in Irun, the Basque Country, Northern Spain. You can fly there or take a bus or train. If you come from overseas the easiest way is to fly to Madrid and from there get to Irun.

Flying to Irun

The nearest airport is San Sebastian with direct flights only from Spanish cities: Madrid, Barcelona, Mallorca, and Seville. If you come from overseas you can first fly to one of these cities and from there to San Sebastian. The flights are operated by Vueling and Iberia (Barcelona and Madrid) and Volotéa (Sevilla, and Mallorca). A shuttle bus runs between the airport and Irun with one connection in Ondarriba.

Getting to Irun by bus

The easiest way of getting to Irun by bus is from Madrid. There are several daily direct buses. The journey takes between 6 and 7 hours. You can find departure times and prices on the ALSA website. There are direct buses to Irun from Bilbao, Pamplona, Oviedo, Burgos, and Santander. To get to Irun from Barcelona first, you get a bus to Pamplona and from there another bus to Irun.

Getting to Irun by train

Direct trains connect Madrid and Irun. The journey takes 6 hours. You can find information on the trains to Irun on the Renfe website.

Luggage transfer on the route

If you don’t want to walk with a heavy backpack you can use a luggage transfer service. The Spanish post office Correos offers luggage transfer service on the Northern Way of St.James.

In 2025, the luggage retransfer service on the Camino del Norte is available from Easter to 31 October. There is no backpack delivery service offseason. The average cost is 8-9 euros per backpack per stage, depending on the distance.

It works very easily, you leave your backpack in the morning at the reception. The company picks it up and delivers it to your next accommodation place. By the time you arrive your backpack will be there. You can arrange the delivery in advance or make up your mind once you start walking.

The best time for walking

In our experience late spring (May) and early fall (September to first half of October) is the best time to walk the Camino. The weather is pleasant and it’s outside the peak touristy season which is July and August.

To walk the Northern Way off-season (November – March) is quite tricky; it rains a lot, it gets quite cold and windy, and many albergues are closed. On the bright side hotels are much cheaper so you can stay in private every night.

As for walking the route in the peak season (July and August), it’s doable but it can get very hot and dry and overcrowded (not the Camino itself but the coastal towns along the route as it’s a popular summer holiday destination).

A warm and sunny day on the Norther Way, the beginning of October Heavy rain and storm on the Northern Way, end of October We walked the Northern Way in October and had nice sunny weather but at the end of the month it got rainy and quite chilly

How much does it cost?

In our experience the Northern Camino is the most expensive Camino route. After walking for 3 or 4 days we wanted to switch to a different Camino because everything was too expensive (we walked it in the off-season). Once we were out of the Basque Country prices got better. If you walk in the peak season (July and August) the cost of accommodation might put you off the walk.

Accommodation 

The Basque countryis one of the most expensive regions in Spain, especially the coastal part. Usually being a pilgrim is cheaper than being a tourist. At least accommodation costs you less because you can stay in albergues but not on the Northern Camino (at least not in the first part of it).

Hotels and guesthouses can be a good alternative off-season when prices are lower. Then you can find a double room with a private bathroom for 50-60 Euros. In the summer months, a room in a hotel is more expensive, between 80 and 90 Euros, it must be booked in advance, especially in places like San Sebastián, Getaria, etc.

Cantabria, Asturias, and Galicia are more or less at the same price level. There are more public albergues, and some of them are open all year. Public albergues are around 10-12 Euros, private albergues/hostels – 15-20 Euros. There are some albergues for donation.

For a private double room (with a bathroom) in these three provinces, you’ll pay an average of 50 Euros, sometimes more, sometimes less, depending on the location and facilities of the place. The cheapest double room we got was in Asturias for 40 Euros with a private bathroom. The most expensive one was in Gijón for 60 Euro but it was a great place. In the high season (July-August) hotels are a lot more expensive. 

The historical center of Bilbao, one of the main cities on the Northern Camino

Food

Food on the Camino de Santiago is a part of the experience. Northern Spain in particular the Basque Country is known for its food; pintxos, seafood, fish, and vegetables are top quality. The region is known as one of the world’s best destinations for food lovers. Pintxos (similar to tapas) in the Basque Country are a must-try. The other three provinces have delicious food as well with a great variety of fish, seafood, meat, and vegetables.

Eating out costs more or less the same everywhere on the Northern Camino. Menu del Día (set lunch) is between 12 and 15 Euros, depending on the restaurant, area, and food quality. A cup of black coffee – 2 Euros, coffee with milk – 3 Euros. Breakfast (toast with jam and butter and coffee) – 5 Euros, English breakfast – 10 Euros. Dinner at a restaurant is between 25 and 35 Euro pp.

Shopping

Food prices in different provinces are more or less the same. The main difference is buying food in a big supermarket or a small grocery shop. The second one is usually more expensive. Average shopping will cost you between 8 and 10 Euros per person for 2 meals.

Set up your budget

• Accommodation – 10-12 Euros pp. for municipal albergues; 15-20 Euros pp. for private albergues and hostels. Hotels (a double room) from 60 Euros, in some places 80+ Euros.
• Eating out – average 12 Euros for Menu del Día; 2 Euros for a cup of coffee; 5 Euros breakfast with coffee; 3 Euros for a pintxo; 25-35 Euro for a restaurant dinner, 10-12 Euro for a dinner at the albergue (many private albergues serve communal dinner).
• Shopping – between 8 and 10 Euros pp. per day.
• Laundry – most places charge 4-5 Euros for washing and 5-6 Euros drying.
• Luggage transfer – 8-9 Euros per backpack per stage.

The spectacular coastal scenery in Asturias on the Northern Way

Our budget breakdown

Per person for 30 days

• Accommodation – 600 Euro or 20 Euro per person per day.
• Shopping – 240 Euro or 8 Euro pp. per day. We tried to cook every time we had a kitchen.
• Eating out (coffee, pintxos, menus) – 300 Euro or 10 Euros pp. per day.
• Other (laundry, entrance tickets, etc.) –  50 Euros per person.

In total, we spent 1190 Euros per person in 30 days or 40 Euros per person per day. We didn’t try to budget too much and stayed a couple of times in private hotels, went out for drinks, and sometimes ate Menu del Dia.

If you try to budget, stay only in albergues, don’t go out, and buy food in supermarkets, you can do it for 30-35 Euros pp. per day.

More details on the cost of the Camino can be found in our The cost of walking the Camino de Santiago – a detailed breakdown post.

What to pack for the walk?

We’ve walked nice different Camino de Santiago routes in different seasons and all kinds of weather. Here are some of our top peaks for the Camino.

We have a detailed Camino de Santiago packing post where you can find the complete list of items recommended to take on the Camino for men and women for different seasons.

Best guidebooks for the Camino

We usually use Camino guidebooks by John Briely. Unfortunately, he doesn’t have one of the Northern Camino. The options are quite limited.

A small harbour in one of the coastal towns along the route

What is the accommodation like?

The Camino has a wide network of albergues – special hostels for pilgrims. Albergues can be public, run by a local municipality, and private, run by a person or a company. Public (municipal) albergues are exclusively for pilgrims with a Credential walking or cycling the Camino. Public albergues are the cheapest accommodation option on the Northern Way. They cost around 8-10 Euros per person.

Private albergues usually allow tourists but most of the time people staying there are pilgrims. A bed in a private albergue costs 15-17 Euros. Both public and private albergues have dormitory rooms with several beds and shared facilities. Private albergues usually have better facilities than public ones.

Comparing public and private albergues

Many municipal and private albergues on the Northern Way are closed for the offseason if you walk the route between November and February it’s better to check beforehand if the albergue you’re planning to stay in is open or not. 

Most places along the Camino have hotels or guesthouses. These are more expensive but much more comfortable. If you can afford it I’d recommend from time to time staying in a private room. It’s nice to have some privacy and be able to rest well without being disturbed. We usually stay one or two nights a week in a private room.

We haven’t seen many campsites on the Northern Camino there are some but most of them are off the route. We met a couple of people carrying a tent on the route but they ended up staying in public albergues instead of wild camping.

San Sebastian is probably the most beautiful city on the Northern Camino de Santiago

How busy is the route?

The Camino del Norte is the fifth most popular Camino de Santiago route. In 2023 4,6% (20 582 pilgrims) of all pilgrims who arrived in Santiago completed this route. It’s by far less busy than the Camino Frances or any route of the Portuguese Camino from Porto. Though there are not many pilgrims walking it the coastal towns are very popular tourist destinations. July and August are the peak touristy season which means it gets very busy and expensive. It might be not the best time for walking.

My favorite parts of the Northern Camino

These are in our opinion the most beautiful walking stages of the Northern Camino de Santiago.

Irún to San Sebastián (the Basque Country) – sea scenery, cliffs, forest, beaches. Incredible views from the top before descending to Pasaia and stunning views on the way from Pasaia to San Sebastián.

San Sebastián to Getaria (the Basque Country) – beaches, green hills, the sea. Great views from the lookout before Zarautz and beautiful Paseo Maritimo (promenade) from Zarautz to Getaria.

Laredo to Noja (Cantabria) –  a nice beach walk in Laredo to the ferry, beautiful sea scenery on the way from Santoña to Noja.

Güemes to Santander (Cantabria) – if you’re lucky with the weather it might be one of the most beautiful walking days on the Northern Way. Most of the time you walk on the edge of the cliffs, by the sea, past some beautiful hidden beaches. Walking barefoot on the sand of Playa Somo for a couple of kilometers is incredible.

The historical center of Santander

Santillana del Mar to Comillas (Cantabria) – a nice forest walk with a couple of small towns on the way, a beautiful view of Comillas and the coast on the last 2km.

Comillas to San Vicente de la Barquera (Cantabria)  – breathtaking scenery with cliffs, ocean, beaches, and green hills, I just wanted to live in one of the houses on the top of those green hills overlooking the sea.

Colombres to Llanes (Asturias)  – if you take the coastal route Sendero de la Costa you’ll get some incredible views, plus you’ll walk past Bufones de Arenillas (seawater geysers).

Soto de Luiña to Cadavedo (Asturias) – if you walk along the coast you’ll get some spectacular views. 2km before Cadavedo do a detour and go to the beach first from there go up to Ermita de la Regalina (small chapel), you’ll get some stunning views from there. 

Tapia de Casariego to Ribadeo (Asturias-Galicia) – the last bit of walking by the sea, after Ribadeo the route turns inland. The last 5km to Ribadeo was the most picturesque with great viewpoints. The bridge Puente dos Santos looks quite impressive from Figueras’s side as well.

Mondoñedo to Gontán (Galicia) – unlike most of the previous walking stages on the Norther Way this one has nothing to do with the sea, only mountains, and forest. It is beautiful and remote, there is quite an uphill walk on the route try still to enjoy the scenery.

The worst part of the route

The walk from Gijón to Avilés – 25km (except 3km somewhere in the middle) is along the busy roads or through industrial areas, if you’re thinking of skipping a stage it’s one to skip. I hate walking next to the highways all the noise gets on my nerves if you add to these dull industrial areas with grey fences and chimneys – it’s the worst combination.  

The Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela, the end of the Northern Camino

Northern Camino FAQs

Is there a lot of road walking on the Northern Camino?

There were some roads and sidewalks on the route like on any other Camino. If I must compare the Northern Way with other Caminos we’ve done – there was less walking on asphalt or cobblestones than on the Portuguese Way but more than on the Primitivo. For the first couple of days, the route goes most of the time on the path or beach, with not many roads.

Most of the time you get asphalt or roads when you walk in or out of the big cities – usually the least pleasant part of the Camino e.g. walking out of Bilbao, walking from Gijón to Avilés, walking out of Santander.

Is the Northern Way a good route to walk as the first Camino?

Yes. For many people, we met walking the Northern Camino was their first Camino ever, they all were fine and finished it at the same time as us. I don’t think you need any special Camino experience or you have to walk the French Way first – just follow the tips that experienced pilgrims give and take good care of your feet – you’ll be fine. I wouldn’t recommend walking the Via de la Plata as the first Camino because it’s longer, over 1000 km, with less infrastructure and longer stages but del Norte is absolutely fine.

Is the Northern Camino the most beautiful route?

It’s always difficult to compare and to choose the best or the favorite one. We did enjoy this Camino a lot, it’s a great combination of beautiful nature; the sea and mountain scenery, and cultural experience. Another thing we liked about this Camino is that you walk through four different regions which gives you a great opportunity to compare them, see the differences between the regions, and admire how the scenery, food, and even languages change as you go.

Which route to choose the French or the Northern Camino?

It depends on what you want to see and experience. On the French Camino, you don’t see the sea the route goes inland from Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port in France to Santiago de Compostela. The Northern Way follows the coast, it doesn’t mean you see the sea every day for weeks but you do walk quite a lot next to the ocean, past unspoiled beaches, and breathtaking look-outs.

On the other hand, the French Way has more infrastructure and many more public albergues than the Northern Way which makes the walk cheaper. In general, the Northern coast of Spain is more touristy and as a result more expensive than the inland regions. After walking both routes I can say that the Northern Way is more expensive than the Camino Frances but the scenery is more impressive on this route.

You can find more answers to your questions in our Camino de Santiago FAQ post.

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The pretty half of Stingy Nomads, responsible for all our land adventures (hiking, climbing, walking the Camino) and following them write-ups. Alya loves walking since she was a child, she prefers to walk 1000 km with a backpack rather than to do a 10 000 km road trip (actually any road trip). Alya is a big fan of Latin America, the Spanish language, and dancing. Every time we go away she desperately misses our dog Chile.

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