Explore the beauty of Frank Lloyd Wright’s Fallingwater and its stunning surroundings on a captivating journey in Pennsylvania.
While living in Oak Park, Illinois, I often drove down Chicago Avenue past Frank Lloyd Wright’s Home and Studio. You couldn’t miss the stone entrance to his office right next to the busy urban street. Approaching Fallingwater in southwestern Pennsylvania, couldn’t have been more different. A guide slowly led my group down a wooden boardwalk and then onto a dirt path as the sun danced through the thick trees. A side trail led us to our first glimpse of Bear Run, which attracted the owners of Fallingwater to the area, quietly trickling by after a dry summer.
Bear Run off of the trail to Fallingwater. Photo by Judy Karnia
As a huge fan of Wright’s architecture, visiting Fallingwater has long been a dream of mine. The iconic photos of a house perched above a waterfall exemplify Wright’s devotion to integrating his structures into the surrounding environment. Although I have always lived in cities, I am drawn to Wright’s belief that humans should live in harmony with nature, using local materials and the orientation of windows and outdoor spaces.
What’s in This Article:
Toggle
The First Glimpse of Fallingwater
As we rounded a bend in the road, there it was, Fallingwater. And yet, the architect’s ingenuity created more awe at the fact that I could barely see the house as I approached it. What I could mainly see was the burnt-orange walls of the spacious terraces jutting out from two levels, intimately set among the trees. As we drew closer, the seamless integration of nature and architecture became more apparent; each element enhancing the beauty of the other in a harmonious dance of design and environment.
View of the terraces of Fallingwater from the bridge to the house. Photo by Judy Karnia
I also heard the water flowing over the falls and understood why the Kaufmanns loved this land and commissioned Wright to build their home here. They had envisioned the house situated on the opposite bank of the waterfall, allowing them to gaze out at the cascading water. Wright, of course, had his own vision. Setting the house atop the water allowed the residents to hear the soothing sounds of the water throughout the structure. You get the feeling of being part of the river rather than an unconnected viewer.
Touring Frank Lloyd Wright’s Iconic Creation
Touring the home, I could see all the typical Wright features: walls built of local stone, flagstone flooring, large fireplaces, horizontally oriented furniture and built-in cabinetry, lots of windows, and cool but uncomfortable-looking couches.
Living room of Fallingwater. Photo by Judy Karnia
Perfecting the Imersion in Nature
Through some special touches, however, he perfects the immersion in nature in this home. The outdoor terraces offer more space than the indoor areas, allowing you to enjoy various aspects of the river and falls. Glass-enclosed steps lead directly to the river, and another stone staircase leads to a walled-off plunge pool.
One of the spacious terraces of Fallingwater. Photo by Judy Karnia
Mr. Kaufmann wanted to expand the desk in his bedroom, but Wright didn’t want to reduce the amount of window space. Rightly so, as this corner made of windows has an ingenious way to open to view and hear Bear Run. Wright acquiesced and enlarged Kaufmann’s desk, but he carved out enough of its surface that the window could swing into it.
View from Edgar Kaufman’s bedroom. Photo by Judy Karnia
The balance between the outer wall and the window space is also perfect. The horizontal slabs of Pottsville sandstone sourced on-site mimic the riverbank. The expansive windows reflect the foliage between the wooden frames, which are painted Cherokee red, Wright’s signature color. The house appears to have grown naturally in its surroundings.
Bedroom at Fallingwater with a door leading to a terrace. Photo by Judy Karnia
Much of the artwork throughout the house reflects Wright’s taste in prairie style and Asian art. The Kaufmanns, however, managed to sneak in some of their own choices, demonstrating their extensive knowledge of the art world.
The Kaufmanns Seek a Refuge
Edgar and Liliane Kaufmann fell in love with the Bear Run area and spent time there to escape the noise and pollution of Pittsburgh in the early 20th century. Edgar had taken over the Kaufmann department store from his father and uncle, who had immigrated to the United States from Germany in 1872. With their two brothers, they expanded their enterprise into a well-known business that sold almost everything people in Pittsburgh needed at low prices.
The bridge over Bear Run that leads to Fallingwater. Photo by Judy Karnia
After they passed management of Kaufmann Department Store to Edgar, he and Liliane increased sales by introducing high fashion, fine art, and high-quality furnishings, as well as adding restaurants. They also installed murals and exhibited paintings. The couple became prominent in Pittsburgh society and amassed a considerable amount of wealth. Edgar helped found the Allegheny Conference on Community Development, the Pittsburgh Civic Light Opera, and the Urban Redevelopment Authority of Pittsburgh. Liliane was involved with the Red Cross during World War I and was later elected president of Montefiore Hospital.
Their son, Edgar Jr., was more interested in art than running the family business. He studied painting in Europe and then became an apprentice in 1934 at Wright’s Taliesin in Wisconsin, where he introduced his parents to the architect. Edgar Jr. went on to be a curator at the Museum of Modern Art in New York and an adjunct professor at Columbia University. Over the years, he established himself as an authority on Wright and wrote a book, Fallingwater: A Frank Lloyd Wright Country House, in 1986.
Edgar Jr. inherited Fallingwater in 1955 and continued visiting the home for several years. To ensure the preservation of the structure and surrounding land, he entrusted it to the Western Pennsylvania Conservancy in the 1960s. The Department of the Interior designated Fallingwater a National Historic Landmark in 1976. Three years later, Architect Paul Mayen, Edgar Jr.’s life partner, designed the visitor center, the construction of which was paid for by the Edgar J. Kaufmann Charitable Fund.
Looking Back
After touring the house, our group walked back across the bridge over the stream and along the bank to the best viewpoint of Fallingwater. From downstream, the layered terraces of the house mimic the slabs of stone that create the waterfalls. The structure appears to hover, with the water flowing from beneath it. I contemplated the genius of Frank Lloyd Wright enmeshing Fallingwater perfectly amid the trees with Bear Run rushing seemingly through it.
Check More Articles Related to Frank Lloyd Wright
Frank Lloyd Wright is one of the most well-known and influential American architects of the 20th Century. The image of Fallingwater wreathed in tall trees and hovering over a waterfall, is likely the one that most often comes to mind when thinking about Wright. His commitment to building in harmony with nature really shines through in this structure. Driving a little over an hour from Pittsburgh to reach the Laurel Highlands allows you to experience this icon.
We invite you to explore Wander With Wonder for more to explore when visiting Pennsylvania. We also have more articles about impressive architecture that you can experience in your travels.
Please visit:
Our Sponsor