Albania is perhaps one of the most underrated destinations I’ve ever been to! What do you like in your perfect adventure? Rugged mountains, turquoise coastlines, ancient architecture, history, great vibes, good food….? Albania has got it all and at fraction of the cost that you’d probably find anywhere else in Europe. Whether you’re hiking in the dramatic Albanian Alps, lounging on the pristine beaches of the Riviera, exploring Ottoman-era towns like Gjirokastër and Berat, or soaking in the lively energy of Tirana, you can expect an incredibly diverse travel experience.
When should you visit Albania?
In my opinion, May to mid-June or September to mid-October are ideal for mild weather, fewer crowds, and great conditions for hiking, sightseeing, and road trips. This is when you can also avoid the intense heat of the summer months (Jul-Aug) and can also swim in the lovely seas. We went mid-June, and it was already beginning to get quite hot, making daytime walking quite difficult, with temperatures in mid-30s C. But it was perfect to spend the hot afternoons swimming in the lovely ocean waters of the Albanian Riviera.
How much time should you spend in Albania?
Ideally, plan to spend at least 7–10 days in Albania to truly experience its variety—from mountains to beaches, historic towns to vibrant cities. We spent around 10 days exploring Albania with a fairly packed itinerary, and while we covered a lot, we left wishing we had a few extra days—especially in the mountains. The lush landscapes, dramatic scenery, and authentic cultural experiences in the north deserved more time to fully soak in and enjoy at a slower pace.
Should You Rent a Car and Drive in Albania?
Let’s start with the big question: should you rent a car and drive around Albania on your own? Unfortunately, there’s no simple yes or no answer to this. While renting a self-drive car is certainly possible and a great way to explore the country, whether it’s the right decision depends heavily on your driving confidence and patience—especially when dealing with erratic drivers.
As for the roads themselves, most of the routes covered in this itinerary are paved. While some can be narrow and winding through mountainous terrain, they’re generally manageable. That said, you’ll encounter occasional potholes and uneven stretches—nothing too alarming, but worth being aware of.
The real challenge lies in dealing with local driving habits. It’s not uncommon for drivers to completely ignore traffic rules, stop abruptly in the middle of the road, block narrow passages, tailgate until you move aside, or overtake recklessly—even on blind turns or when coming head-on at full speed.
In short, while driving in Albania is absolutely doable and gives you the flexibility to explore off-the-beaten-path destinations, it can be a bit stressful—especially if you’re not a confident or experienced driver. Proceed with caution and a good dose of patience. Also, driving within Tirana is an absolute no, so avoid it to the extent possible, because this is where you’ll find the worst traffic and driving sense. Once outside the city limits, things are (slightly) better. That said, do buy full insurance cover, whether from your car rental company or third party. We booked our rental car (as well as insurance) through discovercars.com which was a great experience both in terms of the prices as well as offers we received.
Do I need a 4×4 to drive around in Albania?
While a 4WD vehicle can offer extra comfort and stability—especially on uneven terrain—you won’t need a 4×4 for the destinations covered in this itinerary. Most popular routes in Albania are now well-paved, and even when you do encounter occasional gravel or uneven roads, they are generally manageable with a standard sedan or hatchback.
Unless you’re planning to venture far off the beaten path into remote villages or rugged mountain trails, a regular car will do just fine for your road trip. Just drive cautiously on winding roads and be mindful of occasional potholes or narrow passages.
What to keep in mind while booking your rental car in Albania
If you have decided to rent a car after all, but there are a few key things to consider before you book:
- Do you need an International Driving License to rent a car?
For most travelers, a valid national driving license from your home country is sufficient to rent and drive a car in Albania—as long as it’s in the Latin alphabet (e.g., English, French, Spanish). However, if your license is in a non-Latin script (like Cyrillic, Arabic, or Chinese), you will need an International Driving Permit (IDP) in addition to your original license. Our driving license has been issued in the UAE and was accepted by our car rental company Viaggiare without requiring an IDP. However, some rental companies may require it, so it’s a good idea to check with them directly in advance.
- Do you plan to cross borders?
If you’re planning to drive into neighboring countries such as Montenegro, Kosovo, North Macedonia, or Greece, you’ll need to inform the rental company at the time of booking. Cross-border travel is not always permitted by default and in most cases where it’s permitted, will require a special approval. Make sure to inform the car rental company about your itinerary/ plans in this case.
- Can you take this car on a ferry?
This is required only in case you’re planning to take a ferry and need to carry your car along with you (example: in my itinerary, a ferry across Lake Koman has the option to carry your car too, or ferry to Corfu from Albanian Riviera). Not all rental companies allow their vehicles to be transported by ferry, and doing so without prior approval might invalidate your insurance.
Porto Polermo Beach
The perfect self-drive itinerary for 10 days in Albania
Thanks to the flexibility of having our own car, we were able to cover a lot of ground in 10 days in Albania. We rented our car at the airport itself, which was an excellent decision because we found several inexpensive options at the airport vs the city. Driving in Tirana is painful so we just parked our car in the hotel on the first day and explored the city on foot. Once you get out of Tirana, it’s easier. We spent about two days in the north, though in hindsight, I wish we had balanced our time a bit differently—perhaps dedicating more to the mountains and a little less to the coast. That said, it really comes down to personal preference. Some travelers may prefer sun-soaked beaches and coastal towns, while others might be drawn to the tranquility and raw beauty of the mountains. The beauty of Albania is that you can tailor your itinerary to match your travel style.
Day 1: Tirana
Chances are your flight into Albania will land in Tirana International Airport (TIA), making the capital city a natural starting point for your journey. While Tirana is the country’s political and economic center, it offers a very different vibe compared to the coastal towns or scenic mountain villages that you’ll encounter later in your trip.
To be honest, Tirana was my least favorite stop in Albania—not because it lacks character, but simply because it didn’t quite match the charm, natural beauty, or authenticity of other parts of the country. That said, it’s still worth spending a day here to soak in the culture, history, and urban contrast.
Things to Do in Tirana (in 1 Day):
- Skanderbeg Square – The heart of the city, this large public space is surrounded by some of Tirana’s most important landmarks including the National History Museum, the Et’hem Bey Mosque, and the Opera House.
- Bunk’Art 2 – A fascinating and slightly eerie underground museum set in a Cold War-era bunker that gives insight into Albania’s communist past.
- Pyramid of Tirana – Once a symbol of communist power, this now graffiti-covered structure has become an oddly iconic photo spot.
- Take the Dajti Express Cable Car – For a breath of fresh air and panoramic views of the city, head to Mount Dajti via the cable car and enjoy lunch at the top.
- Stroll along the Grand Park and Artificial Lake – A nice way to unwind, especially in the late afternoon.
- Murat Toptani Street & Kalaja e Tiranes (Tirana Castle): Located near Skanderbeg Square, Murat Toptani Street is one of Tirana’s most pleasant pedestrian promenades. Lined with trees, art installations, and charming cafés, it’s a great spot to take a leisurely stroll, grab a coffee, or admire open-air exhibits. As you walk along, you will come across Kalaja e Tiranes, a small, walled historic site that has been transformed into a charming cultural and gastronomic area. Inside the castle walls, you’ll find a bit of preserved architecture with a cozy courtyard feel, that has artisan shops, cafés & boutique restaurants.
Skanderbeg Square 
Dajti Express Cable Car views
Book your stay in Tirana here.
Day 2: Lake Bovilla, Kruje, Shkoder
Now, this is a very long & tightly packed day so if you’re looking for a more relaxed itinerary, skip Lake Boville and directly proceed to Kruje from Tirana. However, if you’re an early riser and don’t mind a long & active day, then the lake is a must visit because of how gorgeous it is!
Lake Bovilla: Drive time from Tirana is about 1 hour, however, the road is part paved, part gravel, so take it slow and easy. Lake Bovilla is known for its stunning turquoise water, dramatic mountain backdrop, and peaceful atmosphere. Once you reach, hike to the Bovilla Viewpoint for panoramic views over the reservoir (the hike takes about 30–40 minutes and can be moderately steep but manageable). Keep aside about 3-4 hours for this trip so start very early if you wish to cover it!
Kruje Castle & Old Bazaar: From Bovilla, Kruje Castle is about 1 – 1.5-hours’ drive depending on the traffic. Perched on a hillside, Krujë is a town rich in history and culture, famous for its connections to Albania’s national hero, Skanderbeg. Explore the castle and stroll through the Old Bazaar for traditional crafts and souvenirs like carpets, copperware, and wooden items. Enjoy a quick lunch with a view—Panorama Restaurant or Bar Restorant Alba are good options. Keep about 2 hours for exploring Kruje.
Shkoder: Finally, drive to Shkoder, starting from Rozafa Castle (1.5 hours from Kruje). The castle has incredible views over Lake Shkodër and the surrounding rivers. After the castle, visit the lakeside town Shiroka, just a 15-min drive from the castle, where you can walk along the lake, take a boat ride or simply enjoy a nice coffee/ meal in one of the restaurants along the lake.
At the end of the evening, visit the heart of Shkodër’s historic district is centered around Rruga Kolë Idromeno and Rruga 28 Nëntori, a pedestrian-only promenade known locally as the “promenade of Shkodër.” It stretches about 1 km and is lined with cafés, restaurants, bookshops, and boutiques in beautifully restored Mediterranean-style buildings.
Recommended overnight stay in the city center: InTown Guesthouse Shkoder
Day 3: Theth OR Lake Koman & Valbona OR Shala River
Now, there are many ways you can spend a day (or two) in the mountains, immersed in the beauty of the Albanian Alps. Shkodër serves as the perfect gateway to some of the most unforgettable mountain experiences in the country. From here, you can embark on scenic drives, breathtaking hikes, and ferry journeys through dramatic valleys and towering peaks.
Option 1: Drive to Theth (overnight stay in Theth)
This is the option we chose, though it was Plan B (Plan A failed, more details later). Theth is a stunning alpine village nestled deep in the heart of the Albanian Alps, located roughly two hours from Shkodër. The journey to Theth is now far more accessible than it once was—thanks to a recently paved road, which, just a few years ago, was little more than a rough gravel path. While the improved road has made Theth more reachable, it’s still a challenging drive that demands your full attention. The route winds through narrow mountain passes, with frequent blind curves, single lane stretches, and steep drop-offs, so confident driving skills and a cautious approach are essential. That said, the scenery along the way is breathtaking—and well worth the effort.
Once in Theth, here’s how you can spend the day:
- Hike to the Blue Eye: By far, this is the #1 experience in Theth. You can potentially hike all the way from Theth Village to The Blue Eye (takes about 5-6 hours, 18 kms round trip) or you could save some time and drive to the small village of Nderlysaj, park your car and start the short 45-min uphill hike from there. This was a much better option for us since we had limited time. There’s a beautiful café next to the river at the start of the hike and one at the end, right above the Blue Eye, offering staggering views. The hike is entirely uphill and can get tough during summer due to the intense sun bearing down on you directly so remember to carry lots of water, good sunscreen & shoes for this hike.
- Hike to Grunas Waterfall: If you’re hiking to the Blue Eye from Theth, this will be a detour along the way. However, if you’re hiking to the Blue Eye from Nderlysaj, then you’ll have to stop separately along your drive to do this short hike to the Grunas Waterfall, which is about 40 min out.
- Theth Village: The village itself is quite cute with a lot of restaurants, some along the river, offering gorgeous views. The road inside the village isn’t paved, its gravel, but you don’t need a 4X4 for it. One of the key attractions in the village is a charming church, dedicated to Saint John the Baptist, originally constructed in 1892 and rebuilt on its original foundations.
- Zipline: This is a fun activity you can do in the Theth Village, soaring about the river!
Theth to Valbona Hike
The Theth to Valbona hike is one of the most iconic and scenic treks in the Balkans—a must-do experience for nature lovers and adventure seekers visiting Albania. It connects two remote, breathtakingly beautiful alpine villages: Theth and Valbona, crossing the heart of the Albanian Alps. The hike is about 17 kms (8-10 hours depending on your pace) so needs a full day and is moderate to challenging (steep ascents/descents), best done in Late May to early October (snow-free and well-marked).
Recommended overnight stay in Theth: Royal Land
Option 2: Lake Koman and Valbona
This was my Plan A but the space for carrying our car on the ferry got sold out by the time we got around to booking it, so we had to replan our day and go with Plan B (Theth). Lake Koman is gorgeous, and taking a ferry across it is a legendary journey through Albania’s wild heart, almost making you feel like you’re in the fjords of Norway, sailing between towering mountains. The ferry leaves from Komani at 9 am, which is a 1.5-hour drive from Shkoder, and arrives in Fierze at 11.30 am (2.5 hours journey). You can get your car along in the ferry and once in Fierze, Valbona, another beautiful town nestled in the Albanian Alps, is just a 1.5-hour drive ahead.
What to do in Valbona:
- Take a stroll around the Valbona village, passing by charming stone houses, wooden fences, and peaceful farmland backdropped by jagged peaks.
- Visit the Xhemes’ Lake, a small crystal-clear glacial pond nearby (30–45 min walk) for photos and quiet reflection.
- Hike a part of the Valbona-Theth hike: The first 2-3 hours of the hike offer incredible perspective of the valley, wildflowers, and dramatic cliffs.
Recommended place to stay in Valbona: Bujtina Arturi
Theth or Valbone?
This is one of the most common questions—and one I spent a lot of time researching myself while planning our trip! In short, Theth is more accessible and developed, with better infrastructure, a wider range of guesthouses and cafés, and a more defined village layout. But with that comes larger crowds and slightly fewer hiking opportunities. Valbona, on the other hand, is more remote and peaceful, offering a wider variety of hiking trails and stunning open landscapes. However, it’s more spread out and has fewer dining or entertainment options. So if you can’t do both, the choice really comes down to what kind of experience you’re after—convenience and charm, or seclusion and adventure.
Komani Lake. Photo by Johnny Africa
Option 3: Shala River
This can be done both from Komani Lake ferry terminal as well as Fierze. The boat ride through Komani Lake to where the Shala River meets the reservoir takes approximately 1 hr 15 min, in which you’ll drift through narrow gorges with towering limestone walls, emerald waters, and dramatic mountain views, to reach a riverside beach destination where you can relax (swim, eat, kayak, sunbathe) for 3-4 hours. Boats usually depart from either destination at around 9.30 am and return to dock around 3.30 pm.
Iconic (bydget) stays in the Albanian Alps:
I discovered two incredibly cozy and immersive stays in the Albanian Alps—perfect for disconnecting from the world and unwinding amid stunning natural beauty, peaceful surroundings, and breathtaking mountain views.
- Guri i Lekes Guesthouse on Shala River: Located right on the Shala River with a beach that provides plenty of opportunity to just relax by this gorgeous blue-green riverbed, getting to this place requires for one to take a boat from Koman Dam (if you’re driving, you park at the public parking here). The boat departs twice daily, 9.30 am and 4.30 pm. The return boat from the guesthouse to the dam departs at 7.30 am and 3.00 pm. It costs €25 per person for a roundtrip.
- Riverside Komani Lake: A beautiful property located right on the lake offering rooms with gorgeous views.
Guri i Lekes Guesthouse. Pic by booking.com 
Riverside Komani Lake. Pic by booking.com
Day 4: Berat via Durres
Whether you’re driving from Theth or Valbona, the trip to Berat is likely to take the same amount of time (roughly 5-6 hours) and thus I recommend a lunch stop at the coastal city of Durres. There’s a long beachfront promenade lined with several restaurants, bars & lounges, so you’re spoiled for choice when it comes to dining options.
You’re likely to arrive in Berat by late afternoon or early evening, which is enough to explore the city’s highlights — especially if you focus on its charming UNESCO-listed old town and iconic viewpoints. Here’s how you can spend half a day here:
- Visit a winery: The region around Berat is known for its wine production, and there are several well-regarded wineries you can visit for a tasting. We stopped at Çobo Winery, one of the most popular in the area, located just 30 minutes short of Berat. It’s a family-run estate known for producing traditional Albanian varietals like Shesh i Bardhë and Shesh i Zi. The guided tasting experience was intimate and informative, offering not just generous pours of their wines but also insight into the history of winemaking in Albania.
- Berat Castle: Climb or drive up to Berat Castle, one of Albania’s oldest and most impressive fortresses. Inside, wander cobbled alleys, visit Byzantine churches and admire panoramic views over the Osum River and city below. Some cozy, charming cafes overlooking the city below offer incredible views & make for the perfect place for a meal/ drink.
- Stroll Through Mangalem & Gorica Quarters: These two historic neighborhoods sit on opposite sides of the Osum River. Mangalem (the Muslim quarter) is famed for its Ottoman houses stacked along the hill — hence the nickname “City of a Thousand Windows.” Gorica, across the stone bridge, offers a quieter, more residential charm and great views of Mangalem from the other side.
Berat Castle 
Views from the castle
Berat Castle 
Views from the castle
Recommended place to stay in Berat: Hotel Vila Aleksander
Day 5: Dhermi
Spend your day soaking in the sun and sea at two of the most beautiful beaches in the area:
- Drymades Beach – With its mix of pebbles and sand, turquoise waters, and a laid-back vibe, this beach is perfect for a relaxing swim or a peaceful afternoon at one of the beachfront cafés or loungers.
- Gjipe Beach – Tucked away between towering cliffs, this secluded gem can be reached via a short hike. It offers a more off-the-beaten-path experience, ideal for those seeking natural beauty and tranquility.
Both beaches are stunning, so you can’t go wrong picking either one to unwind for a few hours—whether it’s soaking up the sun or taking a refreshing dip. Just a heads-up: the shoreline is quite pebbly, so bringing water shoes will make your experience more comfortable.
You can drive ahead 30 min to Himare to stay overnight or stay in Dhermi itself. Both towns are quite lively.
Gjipe Beach 
Gjipe Beach
Book your overnight stay in Dhermi here.
Day 6: Himare
I felt the vibe at Himare was more relaxed than Dhermi and that’s why I preferred staying overnight here. Start your day with breakfast by the sea – head to one of the beachside cafés in the town for a relaxed start.
- Himarë Castle: Drive up to the hilltop fortress that dates to the 4th century BC. The panoramic views over the Ionian Sea and Himarë town are breathtaking. Some parts of the fortress make you feel almost like you’re in Greece, with the blue & white walls. Stop at a cute café with a nice view to enjoy the cozy vibe.
- Livadhi Beach or Jala Beach: These are two of the most popular beaches in the area with crystal-clear water. Livadhi beach has a more laid-back vibe, good for families & quiet relaxation. It is also closer to Himare (10 min). Jala Beach, on the other hand, is further ahead (20 min) and is known for trendy beach clubs and a livelier atmosphere, popular with the younger crowd. Again, these beaches are quite pebbly, so water shoes are recommended!
- Porto Palermo Castle: This is slightly further ahead from Himare so you can either visit it today or the next day when you head to Saranda. It is a beautifully preserved triangular fortress which offers excellent views of the surrounding ocean, located next to an offbeat, less crowded but gorgeous beach.
- Island-hopping Boat Trip: This is one of the most popular things to do in Himare. From a 3-hour trip that costs about €30 and takes you to a few remote beaches and caves in the area, to full day trips, you can choose what you wish to do.
Suggested overnight stay in Himare: Endless Blue Himara
Day 7 & 8: Sarande & Ksamil
While Sarandë can technically be visited as a day trip from Himarë, we chose to spend a couple of nights here to fully soak in its coastal charm and explore the surrounding area at a relaxed pace. With its beautiful beaches, ancient ruins, and lively seaside atmosphere, Sarandë—paired with nearby Ksamil—offers plenty to fill two delightful days. Here’s how you can make the most of your time:
- Monastery of the 40 Saints: Perched on a hill above Sarandë, this historic site offers panoramic views over the city and Ionian Sea. The 6th-century ruins are steeped in legend and provide a peaceful start to your exploration.
- Mirror Beach (Plazhi i Pasqyrave): One of the most beautiful beaches along the Albanian Riviera, known for its clear turquoise waters and reflective surface. A perfect spot for a swim or sunbathe surrounded by cliffs and serenity.
- Butrint National Park: A UNESCO World Heritage Site just 30 minutes from Sarandë, Butrint is an archaeological treasure trove with ruins spanning Greek, Roman, Byzantine, and Venetian periods. It’s a must-visit for history lovers.
- Ksamil: Often called the “Maldives of Albania,” Ksamil is famous for its white sand beaches and small islands that you can swim or kayak to. The water is unbelievably clear, making it perfect for a beach day or lunch by the sea. There are several beachside bars, clubs, lounges to choose from and the vibe here is excellent, the waters are perhaps the best I came across in all of Albania. You can even get a massage on the beach or rent your own boat for as little as €120 for 8 hours (for 5 people) and explore the nearby islands, remote beaches & caves.
- Lëkurësi Castle for Sunset: Wrap up your day with a sunset visit to this hilltop castle, offering sweeping views of Sarandë, Ksamil, and Corfu. There’s also a restaurant and bar here, ideal for a drink as the sun dips below the horizon. Remember that the place starts to get crowded at least 2 hours before the sunset, with the key viewing spots getting occupied early. There’s nothing else to explore in the castle so this stop is ONLY for the views/ sunset experience.
Suggested overnight stay in Sarande: Luxury Villa Alisja Sarande with Private Beach
Day 9: Blue Eye, Gjirokaster, Permet
On this day, you’ll leave the beaches of the Albanian Riviera behind and journey inland toward some of the country’s most unique and culturally rich destinations. This drive takes you through a variety of landscapes—from lush natural springs to UNESCO-listed towns and thermal river valleys—offering a completely different flavor of Albania.
- The Blue Eye (Syri i Kaltër): Just an hour’s drive out of Sarandë, this mesmerizing natural spring is famous for its intense blue color and seemingly bottomless depth. Surrounded by thick forest and flowing water, it’s a peaceful and magical spot to stretch your legs, take photos, or enjoy a coffee at the nearby café. The walk from the parking to the Blue Eye is on a paved road and lasts about 45 min, but you can choose to even rent a scooter or take the tourist train instead. There’s a gorgeous restaurant right before the destination, located on the lake, offering excellent views; it’s a must visit!
- Stop 2: Gjirokastër, The Stone City: Continue the drive for another 1.5 hours to to Gjirokastër, one of Albania’s most beautiful historical towns and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Known as the “City of Stone,” it’s famed for its well-preserved Ottoman architecture, cobblestone streets, and hilltop castle that offers panoramic views. Don’t miss the traditional Zekate House and a stroll through the charming Old Bazaar. Allow a few hours here to explore and enjoy lunch.
- Final Stop: Përmet: Your final stop for the day is Përmet, a lesser-known gem nestled in the Vjosa River valley. Here, you will visit the thermal baths at Bënjë, a series of natural hot springs, nestled beneath a dramatic stone arch bridge, surrounded by mountains and rivers, offering a serene, open-air spa experience in the heart of Albania’s wilderness.
In the evening, head to Permet town, a charming area with pedestrian streets, flower-filled landscapes, lined with cafes and restaurants that come alive in the evening.
Recommended overnight stay in Permet: Hotel Kaso Ervehe
Day 10: Return to Tirana
Return to Tirana for your onward journey out of Albania.
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